| If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above.
You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed.
To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
|
20-01-2004, 11:53 AM
|
#1
|
|
|
Lightning/Garage Door Opener Inoperative
My 12 year old Stanley T-120 garage door opener has stopped working
after a recent lightning storm. The unit makes no movement or noise
when using the remote, push button, or keypad. The storm also blew
several fuses, two receptacles, and shorted the wiring in the circuit
where the opener plugs into the wall outlet, all of which I have
fixed.(there are some metal shelves along the wall that the wiring
runs through, and the surge blew a small hole in the wall to get to
them) The cord from the wall outlet to the opener tests okay. The
insurance deductable is $250, so it would be cheaper to get a new
opener. I have intermediate electronics ability, and would appreciate
it someone could identify the most likely problem area(s) to start.
Thank you.
|
|
|
|
|
20-01-2004, 11:53 AM
|
#2
|
|
|
Re: Lightning/Garage Door Opener Inoperative
If you have elecronics ability then why are you even messing with the
damage 1000000 can cause. How about the stressed components that will
fail in a month, How about those sockets and bad fried wire. Get a
electrician PRO to ck out your house and put in a new opener, and fix
everything. 250 deductible thats cheap. My last lightning strike cost
the ins co 23000, Basicly if its been hit what you dont fix today may
fail tomorrow
|
|
|
|
|
20-01-2004, 11:53 AM
|
#3
|
|
|
Re: Lightning/Garage Door Opener Inoperative
If you have elecronics ability then why are you even messing with the
damage 1000000volts can cause. How about the stressed components that
will fail in a month, How about those sockets and bad fried wire. Get
a electrician PRO to ck out your house and put in a new opener, and fix
everything. 250 deductible thats cheap. My last lightning strike cost
the ins co 23000, Basicly if its been hit what you dont fix today may
fail tomorrow
|
|
|
|
|
20-01-2004, 11:53 AM
|
#4
|
|
|
Re: Lightning/Garage Door Opener Inoperative
Sounds as though you might have a grounding problem. How are your water
pipe and ground rod connections? Clean and tight or corroded and loose?
If you don't have a ground rod, you might want to have one installed.
"lynp" <lyn19219@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:f797d81d.0311210955.377acb43@posting.google.c om...
> My 12 year old Stanley T-120 garage door opener has stopped working
> after a recent lightning storm. The unit makes no movement or noise
> when using the remote, push button, or keypad. The storm also blew
> several fuses, two receptacles, and shorted the wiring in the circuit
> where the opener plugs into the wall outlet, all of which I have
> fixed.(there are some metal shelves along the wall that the wiring
> runs through, and the surge blew a small hole in the wall to get to
> them) The cord from the wall outlet to the opener tests okay. The
> insurance deductable is $250, so it would be cheaper to get a new
> opener. I have intermediate electronics ability, and would appreciate
> it someone could identify the most likely problem area(s) to start.
> Thank you.
|
|
|
|
|
20-01-2004, 11:53 AM
|
#5
|
|
|
Re: Lightning/Garage Door Opener Inoperative
I really don't think it would be worth it to try and fix a 12 year old
unit. Even if you could get the parts, they are likely to cost almost what
a new unit would cost and you would still have a twelve year old unit that
had been hit and might have other damage.
--
Joseph E. Meehan
26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math
"lynp" <lyn19219@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:f797d81d.0311210955.377acb43@posting.google.c om...
> My 12 year old Stanley T-120 garage door opener has stopped working
> after a recent lightning storm. The unit makes no movement or noise
> when using the remote, push button, or keypad. The storm also blew
> several fuses, two receptacles, and shorted the wiring in the circuit
> where the opener plugs into the wall outlet, all of which I have
> fixed.(there are some metal shelves along the wall that the wiring
> runs through, and the surge blew a small hole in the wall to get to
> them) The cord from the wall outlet to the opener tests okay. The
> insurance deductable is $250, so it would be cheaper to get a new
> opener. I have intermediate electronics ability, and would appreciate
> it someone could identify the most likely problem area(s) to start.
> Thank you.
|
|
|
|
|
20-01-2004, 11:54 AM
|
#6
|
|
|
Re: Lightning/Garage Door Opener Inoperative
lyn19219@my-deja.com (lynp) wrote in message news:<f797d81d.0311210955.377acb43@posting.google.com>..
..
> My 12 year old Stanley T-120 garage door opener has stopped working
> after a recent lightning storm. The unit makes no movement or noise
> when using the remote, push button, or keypad. The storm also blew
> several fuses, two receptacles, and shorted the wiring in the circuit
> where the opener plugs into the wall outlet, all of which I have
> fixed.
www.repairfaq.org can be helpful, and I believe it has information
specific to lightning repairs.
As long as the CPU (probably 24-28 pin chip) or the radio decoder chip
didn't blow, you can fix it for a lot less than the cost of a new
opener because all the other parts are generic, and you should be able
to track down the bad ones by doing voltage and ohmmeter tests. Start
where the 120VAC connects to the circuit board and measure for 120VAC,
then measure the low voltages at the secondary side of the
transformer, rectifier, filter capacitors, regulator (probably one for
about 5-8 volts and another for the 12V relays). If you find any bad
relay driver transistors, replace their protective diodes as well, to
prevent back-EMF damage to the new transistors. The radio portion of
the circuit board is near the antenna and coil, and the decoder chip
should be there as well. The output of this chip probably leads to
the logic portion of the circuit board, specifically the part that
handles the wall pushbutton. Look for a signal that goes active when
you press the remote button.
If the opener is old enough to not have a CPU, it probably uses some
4000-series CMOS chips, all generic, all cheap, and the radio decoder
chip is a National Semi. part identical to the one in the remote.
If you get the opener to work again, be sure to replace the MOVs that
provide surge protection with new ones rated for 130-150 volts ACrms
(not peak). Stanleys should have 3 of them (hot-neutral, hot-ground,
neutral-ground), unlike the inferior Chamberlains (Sears, Liftmaster).
|
|
|
|
| Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
|
| Display Modes |
 Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT +11. The time now is 06:32 AM.
Powered by: vBulletin Version 3.0.3
Copyright ©2000 - 2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
The Travel Forum
|
|
|
|
