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Old 07-02-2004, 05:26 PM   #1
DesignGuy
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Posts: n/a
Default LiftMaster garage door opener problems

I recently had to replace my LiftMaster 1260LM garage door opener's receiver
board after an electrical surge damaged the old one. I also replaced both
sensors and the wall control.

While the door goes up and down fine, the wall-mounted control does not. The
control has a large button for open and closing the door which works fine.
However, the light button and the lock button do not work. The light button
will turn the light on but not off. The lock button actually operates the
door in the same manner as the large door button (!). I have double and
triple checked my wiring.

I substituted my old wall control and same thing happens. The only
difference I can find is that my old receiver board was a 41A4252-6A and the
new one is a 41A4252-6D. LiftMaster says the difference is merely an upgrade
and that the problems lies in the wiring. However, I haev check and
re-checked the wiring.

Any ideas, anyone?




 
Old 07-02-2004, 09:02 PM   #2
TexasFireGuy
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Posts: n/a
Default Re: LiftMaster garage door opener problems


"DesignGuy" <dontbother@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:QKXUb.193535$nt4.844650@attbi_s51...
> I recently had to replace my LiftMaster 1260LM garage door opener's

receiver
> board after an electrical surge damaged the old one. I also replaced both
> sensors and the wall control.
>
> While the door goes up and down fine, the wall-mounted control does not.

The
> control has a large button for open and closing the door which works fine.
> However, the light button and the lock button do not work. The light

button
> will turn the light on but not off. The lock button actually operates the
> door in the same manner as the large door button (!). I have double and
> triple checked my wiring.
>
> I substituted my old wall control and same thing happens. The only
> difference I can find is that my old receiver board was a 41A4252-6A and

the
> new one is a 41A4252-6D. LiftMaster says the difference is merely an

upgrade
> and that the problems lies in the wiring. However, I haev check and
> re-checked the wiring.
>
> Any ideas, anyone?
>
>

LiftMaster is made by Chamberlain, who also makes Craftsman openers. If I'm
not mistaken, don't they all use 2 stranded bell wires to connect to the
controller? I don't see how wiring could be your problem. I realize that
the problem may also lie with the wiring or connection of the board but,
there again, there's isn't much to installing these things. It just seems
to me that the problem is with circuitry, not wiring. Someone else here may
have some better advice, but I would probably pay the $40 or so service call
fee to have a tech come out and verify things for you.


 
Old 07-02-2004, 09:02 PM   #3
DesignGuy
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Posts: n/a
Default Re: LiftMaster garage door opener problems


> LiftMaster is made by Chamberlain, who also makes Craftsman openers. If

I'm
> not mistaken, don't they all use 2 stranded bell wires to connect to the
> controller? I don't see how wiring could be your problem. I realize that
> the problem may also lie with the wiring or connection of the board but,
> there again, there's isn't much to installing these things. It just seems
> to me that the problem is with circuitry, not wiring. Someone else here

may
> have some better advice, but I would probably pay the $40 or so service

call
> fee to have a tech come out and verify things for you.


Thanks, and yes, 2 conductor bell wire to the wall control. I know it's not
the wiring, since the wall control has a green LED behind the main button
that lights up *if* it's getting voltage and *if* the wires are in the
correct polarity. So not much to go wrong there....

Since I just purchased the receiver board, I may send it back for another,
under the assumption that it is defective. Then again, perhaps there was a
subtle change between the "A" rev. and the "D" rev. that is causing the
problem.




 
Old 08-02-2004, 07:06 PM   #4
Rich
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Re: LiftMaster garage door opener problems

Could be you've gotten a bad board. Send it back to LiftMaster for testing.
Rich
http://www.new-garage-door-parts.com

"DesignGuy" <dontbother@nowhere.com> wrote in message news:<QKXUb.193535$nt4.844650@attbi_s51>...
> I recently had to replace my LiftMaster 1260LM garage door opener's receiver
> board after an electrical surge damaged the old one. I also replaced both
> sensors and the wall control.
>
> While the door goes up and down fine, the wall-mounted control does not. The
> control has a large button for open and closing the door which works fine.
> However, the light button and the lock button do not work. The light button
> will turn the light on but not off. The lock button actually operates the
> door in the same manner as the large door button (!). I have double and
> triple checked my wiring.
>
> I substituted my old wall control and same thing happens. The only
> difference I can find is that my old receiver board was a 41A4252-6A and the
> new one is a 41A4252-6D. LiftMaster says the difference is merely an upgrade
> and that the problems lies in the wiring. However, I haev check and
> re-checked the wiring.
>
> Any ideas, anyone?

 
Old 08-02-2004, 07:06 PM   #5
Doordoc
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Re: LiftMaster garage door opener problems

"DesignGuy" <dontbother@nowhere.com> wrote in message news:<B5%Ub.187920$Rc4.1478779@attbi_s54>...
> > LiftMaster is made by Chamberlain, who also makes Craftsman openers. If

> I'm
> > not mistaken, don't they all use 2 stranded bell wires to connect to the
> > controller? I don't see how wiring could be your problem. I realize that
> > the problem may also lie with the wiring or connection of the board but,
> > there again, there's isn't much to installing these things. It just seems
> > to me that the problem is with circuitry, not wiring. Someone else here

> may
> > have some better advice, but I would probably pay the $40 or so service

> call
> > fee to have a tech come out and verify things for you.

>
> Thanks, and yes, 2 conductor bell wire to the wall control. I know it's not
> the wiring, since the wall control has a green LED behind the main button
> that lights up *if* it's getting voltage and *if* the wires are in the
> correct polarity. So not much to go wrong there....
>
> Since I just purchased the receiver board, I may send it back for another,
> under the assumption that it is defective. Then again, perhaps there was a
> subtle change between the "A" rev. and the "D" rev. that is causing the
> problem.


The logic board (what you call the receiver board) controls the whole
opener & it should have come w/ a wall panel for that revision of the
board. We always change the wall panel since sometimes the older ones
are not compatible w/ a newer board revision.

The easy test is to disconnect the wall panel wiring from the opener &
wall panel. Connect the wall panel to the opener w/ a short piece of
wire. If you still have the problem exchange the new board & the new
wall panel. If the wall panel works fine, then the problem is in the
existing wiring (most likely the wire being stapled too tight
somewhere or something in the attic on top of the button wire).

Doordoc
www.DoorsAndOpeners.com
 
Old 08-02-2004, 07:07 PM   #6
frank roarty
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Posts: n/a
Default Re: LiftMaster garage door opener problems

> Thanks, and yes, 2 conductor bell wire to the wall control. I know it's not
> the wiring, since the wall control has a green LED behind the main button
> that lights up *if* it's getting voltage and *if* the wires are in the
> correct polarity. So not much to go wrong there....


When multifunction control panels were redesigned to function with
only 2 wires
they employed a scheme that "encodes" different buttons with different
resistance values and the opener then "decodes" which function you
desire based
on current detected. oxidation, overlong wires and loose connections
can increase resistance while wire staples and routing via sharp angle
iron can partially short current. Either will cause your button to be
misinterperted or undetected.
>

 
 


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